Wednesday, 15 July 2015
Friday, 29 May 2015
You can Plant Natives-(Among other Favorites) & Transplant Trees & Shrubs in May.
Hi To ALL Riverland Home Gardeners & Landscapers.
June Planting suggestions from # Mikes 'Budget' Pot Plants.
For Example:
Grevilleas - Winter is native planting time and the perfect time to add more Grevilleas to your garden. Grevilleas are hardy, water-wise and their nectar rich flowers attract birds, beneficial insects and pollinators to the garden.
You can buy Grevillias this Sat. 30th at Mike & Jenny's place...21 Jackson Street, Monash...and this Sunday 31st on the Monash Primary School Oval.
Including advanced "Robusta" $3.50...& "Masons Hybrid" 4" Pot just $2.95!
Most of Mike & Jenny's Plants at this Sundays Market...9am-2pm- are at our
unbeatable price of $2.95...Why Pay More? (We even give you a Free bag to carry home your plants!)
New season's Fruit Trees have arrived at Mikes.
The variety of fruit trees available to the home gardener has never been greater...(Those lucky enough to have a larger block should take advantage of Mikes give away prices and plant a Mini Orchard) Turn your garden into a food forest with our delicious range of new season's fruit trees. Choose from Apples-(Inc. Red Delicious, Pink Lady Pears, Apricots, Citrus-( Navel & Blood Orange)-Lemon-Mandys-(Tahitian & Kaffir Lime)-Grapefruit- Peaches, Plums-( Mariposa-Satsuma-Narrabeen) -Cherry- Ready to plant...All out at just $15 !!
Don't miss out.
We hope you enjoy creating your own edible garden!
Mike & Jenny... Plus one!!
Stand 9 on Sunday. Love to see you all.
June Planting suggestions from # Mikes 'Budget' Pot Plants.
For Example:
Grevilleas - Winter is native planting time and the perfect time to add more Grevilleas to your garden. Grevilleas are hardy, water-wise and their nectar rich flowers attract birds, beneficial insects and pollinators to the garden.
You can buy Grevillias this Sat. 30th at Mike & Jenny's place...21 Jackson Street, Monash...and this Sunday 31st on the Monash Primary School Oval.
Including advanced "Robusta" $3.50...& "Masons Hybrid" 4" Pot just $2.95!
Most of Mike & Jenny's Plants at this Sundays Market...9am-2pm- are at our
unbeatable price of $2.95...Why Pay More? (We even give you a Free bag to carry home your plants!)
New season's Fruit Trees have arrived at Mikes.
The variety of fruit trees available to the home gardener has never been greater...(Those lucky enough to have a larger block should take advantage of Mikes give away prices and plant a Mini Orchard) Turn your garden into a food forest with our delicious range of new season's fruit trees. Choose from Apples-(Inc. Red Delicious, Pink Lady Pears, Apricots, Citrus-( Navel & Blood Orange)-Lemon-Mandys-(Tahitian & Kaffir Lime)-Grapefruit- Peaches, Plums-( Mariposa-Satsuma-Narrabeen) -Cherry- Ready to plant...All out at just $15 !!
Don't miss out.
We hope you enjoy creating your own edible garden!
Mike & Jenny... Plus one!!
Stand 9 on Sunday. Love to see you all.
Friday, 1 May 2015
Great Ideas To Consider In May for Your Own Riverland 'Garden Of Paradise'
Hi May... Riverland Home Gardeners & Landscapers.
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Monday, 20 April 2015
You Too Can Grow Your Own Avacado Tree...From Seed.
Growing an Avacado Tree from seed.
After eating your favorite avocado, don’t throw the seed away! Grow a beautiful decorative houseplant or even your own avocado tree...Its easier than you think!
Materials needed:
· Avocado pit/seed
· Small, clear bottle in order to see the roots grow
· Water
· toothpicks
STEP 1
Remove the large pit/seed inside the avocado.
STEP 2
Rinse the seed well as it can be quite slippery. Then dry it off.
STEP 3
Push three or four toothpicks into the seed at its widest part.
Stick them at a slight downward angle into the avocado seed, spaced evenly around the circumference of the avocado.
These toothpicks are your avocado scaffolding, which will allow you to rest the bottom half of the avocado in water, so therefore the toothpicks need to be wedged in there firmly.
I recommend sticking them in at a slight angle (pointing down), so that more of your avocado base rests in the water when you set this over a glass.
STEP 4
After filling up the bottle to the rim, suspend the seed over the glass of water with the pointy end sticking up
Be sure the bottom part of the seed is in the water. Put it in a warm place and make sure to maintain the water level. DO NOT LET IT DRY OUT. It is better to change the water every five days to a week or so.
You do want to make sure you change the water regularly, to prevent mold, bacteria and fungus growth, which can doom your little avocado sprout.
n my area right now it is autumn and the temperature is in the mid-seventies in the day and lower sixties at night so the seeds are safe outside on my porch in those temperatures.
For those of you in cooler countries, place your bottle/avocado near a sunlit window inside your home during the colder or winter months.
Baby avocado trees can ‘kick it’ outdoors in summer, but if you live anywhere where it gets cooler than 45 degrees F, you’ll need to bring them back indoors in the fall/winter, before the temperatures fall.
In 2-6 weeks, roots and possibly a stem will sprout from the seed.
Growth Progress of the Avocado seedling.
Many online guides I have read say that sprouting can take anywhere from 2-4 weeks, but in my experience, it usually takes at least 8 weeks to get a sprout, so be patient. Here is the process you will witness:
The top of the avocado pit will dry out and form a crack, and the outer brown seed skin will slough off.
The crack will extend all the way to the bottom of the avocado pit, and through the crack at the bottom, a tiny taproot will begin to emerge.
The taproot will grow longer and longer (and may branch), and eventually a small sprout will peek through the top of the avocado pit.
Do not allow your taproot to dry out EVER – doing so will be the death of your plant.
Step 5
When the stem is 6-7 inches long, cut it back to about 3 inches, this will encourage new growth.
When it hits 6-7 inches again, pot it up in a rich humus soil in an 8-10″ diameter pot, leaving the top half of the seed exposed.
Place on a sunny windowsill. Avocados love sun – the more sun the better.
Step 6
When the stem leafs again, transplant the seedling to a pot with loose, sandy soil. Plant the seedling root down, leaving the top part of the pit sticking out of the soil.
For the best results, transplant in the early spring, say March through June. During the summer months there is a risk of sun damage to the young plant since young trees cannot take up water very well.
Give your young avocado tree frequent watering with an occasional deep soak. The soil should always be moist, but not saturated.
Yellowing leaves are a sign of over-watering; let the plant dry out for a few days.
Step 7
When the stem reaches 12 inches tall, pinch out the top two sets of leaves. This will encourage the plant to grow side shoots and more leaves, making it bushy.
Each time the plant grows another 6 inches pinch out the 2 newest sets of leaves on top.
Avocado tree one year old about 6 feet tall.
Some experts prefer to transplant their avocado trees to its permanent place when they are a year old. It is widely accepted that fruit production can be helped with the presence of another avocado variety.
Temperatures during bloom can also influence fruit set. Optimum fruit set occurs at temperatures between about 65 – 75 F. Cooler or warmer temperatures are less ideal. It is also believed that fruit that have been cross pollinated with another variety tend to stay on the tree and not drop off before it matures properly.
If a tree is grown from seed, it can take anywhere from 5 to 13 years before the tree is mature enough to set fruit. When the tree does flower, expect a lot of flowers to fall from the tree without setting fruit. This is natural. Keep in mind that a tree grown from seed will be different from its parent variety.
The neighbor’s avocado tree (which is about 20 feet tall when in full bloom) is a grafted tree that was planted about twenty years ago. For many years it has given hundreds of lovely avocados each yearly crop. It is possible for an avocado tree to produce 200 to 300 fruit per tree once it is about 5 to 7 years of age.
The avocado tree however, alternate bears. This means that the tree may produce a large crop one year, and then will produce a small crop the following year.
There are lots of variables which will influence this. Grafted trees, depending on the variety, can bear fruit within 3-4 years.
Avocado trees can be pruned any time of the year, but there tends to be less vigorous regrowth if it is done after cold weather in the winter, sometime around February.
Some trees can grow up to 35 feet in 30 years. Some grow as tall as 60 feet but with regular pruning, the trees can be kept at a manageable size, say 12 to 15 feet.
Avocado trees can live up to 300 years although there are some wild trees in Mexico that are said to be over 600 years old and still producing fruit!
Tips:
Give your plant frequent, light watering and keep it in a sunny place to encourage growth.
Pinch back the newest top leaves every time the stems grow another six inches or so to encourage more growth and a fuller plant.
In most regions, the avocado plant can stay outside during the summer months. If you live in a warmer climate that does not experience temperatures less than 45 degrees F, you may want to have your avocado tree part of your landscaping by moving the plant permanently outside.
To those of who live in cooler regions, be sure to acclimate your plant to the elements by bringing it outside for a while each day for a week or two.
The avocado tree needs NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) in a balanced fertilizer with zinc. However feed young trees sparingly (1-2 teaspoons per tree, per year) of balanced fertilizer.
( I personally use 'Rapid Raiser' pellets)
When watering, it is best to soak the root system well, and then allow the surface to dry out somewhat before watering again. Depending on the weather this may mean watering once a day or once every two weeks.
Water regularly, but don’t over-water. If your plant has had too much water, the leaves will look yellow.
Hope you have success in your efforts.
Happy Growing...Mike
After eating your favorite avocado, don’t throw the seed away! Grow a beautiful decorative houseplant or even your own avocado tree...Its easier than you think!
Materials needed:
· Avocado pit/seed
· Small, clear bottle in order to see the roots grow
· Water
· toothpicks
STEP 1
Remove the large pit/seed inside the avocado.
STEP 2
Rinse the seed well as it can be quite slippery. Then dry it off.
STEP 3
Push three or four toothpicks into the seed at its widest part.
Stick them at a slight downward angle into the avocado seed, spaced evenly around the circumference of the avocado.
These toothpicks are your avocado scaffolding, which will allow you to rest the bottom half of the avocado in water, so therefore the toothpicks need to be wedged in there firmly.
I recommend sticking them in at a slight angle (pointing down), so that more of your avocado base rests in the water when you set this over a glass.
STEP 4
After filling up the bottle to the rim, suspend the seed over the glass of water with the pointy end sticking up
Be sure the bottom part of the seed is in the water. Put it in a warm place and make sure to maintain the water level. DO NOT LET IT DRY OUT. It is better to change the water every five days to a week or so.
You do want to make sure you change the water regularly, to prevent mold, bacteria and fungus growth, which can doom your little avocado sprout.
n my area right now it is autumn and the temperature is in the mid-seventies in the day and lower sixties at night so the seeds are safe outside on my porch in those temperatures.
For those of you in cooler countries, place your bottle/avocado near a sunlit window inside your home during the colder or winter months.
Baby avocado trees can ‘kick it’ outdoors in summer, but if you live anywhere where it gets cooler than 45 degrees F, you’ll need to bring them back indoors in the fall/winter, before the temperatures fall.
In 2-6 weeks, roots and possibly a stem will sprout from the seed.
Growth Progress of the Avocado seedling.
Many online guides I have read say that sprouting can take anywhere from 2-4 weeks, but in my experience, it usually takes at least 8 weeks to get a sprout, so be patient. Here is the process you will witness:
The top of the avocado pit will dry out and form a crack, and the outer brown seed skin will slough off.
The crack will extend all the way to the bottom of the avocado pit, and through the crack at the bottom, a tiny taproot will begin to emerge.
The taproot will grow longer and longer (and may branch), and eventually a small sprout will peek through the top of the avocado pit.
Do not allow your taproot to dry out EVER – doing so will be the death of your plant.
Step 5
When the stem is 6-7 inches long, cut it back to about 3 inches, this will encourage new growth.
When it hits 6-7 inches again, pot it up in a rich humus soil in an 8-10″ diameter pot, leaving the top half of the seed exposed.
Place on a sunny windowsill. Avocados love sun – the more sun the better.
Step 6
When the stem leafs again, transplant the seedling to a pot with loose, sandy soil. Plant the seedling root down, leaving the top part of the pit sticking out of the soil.
For the best results, transplant in the early spring, say March through June. During the summer months there is a risk of sun damage to the young plant since young trees cannot take up water very well.
Give your young avocado tree frequent watering with an occasional deep soak. The soil should always be moist, but not saturated.
Yellowing leaves are a sign of over-watering; let the plant dry out for a few days.
Step 7
When the stem reaches 12 inches tall, pinch out the top two sets of leaves. This will encourage the plant to grow side shoots and more leaves, making it bushy.
Each time the plant grows another 6 inches pinch out the 2 newest sets of leaves on top.
Avocado tree one year old about 6 feet tall.
Some experts prefer to transplant their avocado trees to its permanent place when they are a year old. It is widely accepted that fruit production can be helped with the presence of another avocado variety.
Temperatures during bloom can also influence fruit set. Optimum fruit set occurs at temperatures between about 65 – 75 F. Cooler or warmer temperatures are less ideal. It is also believed that fruit that have been cross pollinated with another variety tend to stay on the tree and not drop off before it matures properly.
If a tree is grown from seed, it can take anywhere from 5 to 13 years before the tree is mature enough to set fruit. When the tree does flower, expect a lot of flowers to fall from the tree without setting fruit. This is natural. Keep in mind that a tree grown from seed will be different from its parent variety.
The neighbor’s avocado tree (which is about 20 feet tall when in full bloom) is a grafted tree that was planted about twenty years ago. For many years it has given hundreds of lovely avocados each yearly crop. It is possible for an avocado tree to produce 200 to 300 fruit per tree once it is about 5 to 7 years of age.
The avocado tree however, alternate bears. This means that the tree may produce a large crop one year, and then will produce a small crop the following year.
There are lots of variables which will influence this. Grafted trees, depending on the variety, can bear fruit within 3-4 years.
Avocado trees can be pruned any time of the year, but there tends to be less vigorous regrowth if it is done after cold weather in the winter, sometime around February.
Some trees can grow up to 35 feet in 30 years. Some grow as tall as 60 feet but with regular pruning, the trees can be kept at a manageable size, say 12 to 15 feet.
Avocado trees can live up to 300 years although there are some wild trees in Mexico that are said to be over 600 years old and still producing fruit!
Tips:
Give your plant frequent, light watering and keep it in a sunny place to encourage growth.
Pinch back the newest top leaves every time the stems grow another six inches or so to encourage more growth and a fuller plant.
In most regions, the avocado plant can stay outside during the summer months. If you live in a warmer climate that does not experience temperatures less than 45 degrees F, you may want to have your avocado tree part of your landscaping by moving the plant permanently outside.
To those of who live in cooler regions, be sure to acclimate your plant to the elements by bringing it outside for a while each day for a week or two.
The avocado tree needs NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) in a balanced fertilizer with zinc. However feed young trees sparingly (1-2 teaspoons per tree, per year) of balanced fertilizer.
( I personally use 'Rapid Raiser' pellets)
When watering, it is best to soak the root system well, and then allow the surface to dry out somewhat before watering again. Depending on the weather this may mean watering once a day or once every two weeks.
Water regularly, but don’t over-water. If your plant has had too much water, the leaves will look yellow.
Hope you have success in your efforts.
Happy Growing...Mike
Saturday, 18 April 2015
Everybody should 'Grow Their Own' Toms...
Mikes Tip to easily GROW TOMATOES of Most Varieties,
Mikes Tip to easily GROW TOMATOES OF Most Varieties, in Pots or Containers, Including
Foam boxes.
Materials needed:
* A ripe tomato of any variety
* Potting mix . Use Organic if you prefer. Mix in some good, well rotted animal manure. 50-50, unless poultry, then 25% Poultry (optional)
* 3-4 inch pot for the first transplant (optional)
* Large Pot or Foam Box (optional) for one plant that has good drainage.
(if you can, find a free 20 Litre bucket, drill holes for drainage. Makes a great Tomatoe planter, I have about 20 in use)
Select a few over ripe cherry tomatoes (or any variety tomatos that you
prefer. Cherry tomato (all smaller varieties) tend to be less likely to
experience the problems or diseases that larger Tomato varieties can
fall victem to, and they often produce fruit early and have a habit of producing fruit in long trusses.
Select an area in your verandah or garden that is sunny at least ten hours a day. Simply place the selected Tom . onto your ygarden where the soil is loose and rich or in a pot with good potting soil. I then squash the tomato down with any tool I have near.by (Sometimes I simply use the heel of my boot)
I then simply sprinkle a handfull of the potting mix over the Tomato to cover the seed.
Water it once planted. Soak the Tomato bed frequently...it must not dry out, every day at the height of the Riverland SA summer. Apply the water to the soil rather than the leaves in order to help avoid Powdery Mildew. Your potted and foam box plantings need watering frequently.
While tomatoes love heat, they definitely must not be allowed to dry out! Dry soil will definately affect fruit production.
When your baby plants are about 3-4 inches, (8-10 cm) high, it is time to separate and transplant each plant either into your garden or into an individual 3”-4” diameter pot that is filled with good quality, well moistened potting mix, Organic if you prefer. Poke a big enough hole to take the young Tomato plants roots, and plant the seedling.
It is possible for a Tomato plant grow 7 to 10 feet (2-3 metres)
(I have grown Tomato plants easily taller than me...I have Pics if you wish to see them. Yes...I am boasting!) (It can depend on the variety...Grosse Lisse was my choice that year). Allow a metre between plants whatever you are growing. When transplanting the tomato plant to its final growing spot, Plant fairly deep, from the roots upto the first set of leaves,
This will ensure new roots will grow along the buried section of stem, leading to a stronger healthier plant.
If the Tomato plant is in a container or pot, it is advisable, no vital, to Mulch your Pot Plants......I can not stress this enough...keep soil to within an inch (2-3cm) below the rim to allow room for Mulch and water, then stand iin a sunny area of your verandah or garden.
My own observation leads to a word of caution:
Here in the beautiful Riverland, the Summers appear to be hotting up...
I lost a great crop of huge Grosse Lisse toms 2 seasons ago due to severe scalding. (I didn't use shade cloth,it was never a requirement, I do use it now!)
This leads me to be aware of the elements and take action to watch all of my plants.
Tomatoes thrive in the sun Direct sunlight does help maintain stocky, healthy plants. But commonsence must be used...Keep watered!
Once your Tomato plants reach about 3 ft. (about a metre) tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 1 ft. (30cm) of stem. These are the oldest leaves and they are usually the first to expereience any fungal problems. As the plants fill out, the bottom leaves get the least amount of sun and air circulation. Being close to the ground, soil borne nasties can easily spread to the lower leaves.
A fortnight spray of compost tea seems to assist in keeping the plant thrifty.
Pruning tomato suckers is really just thinning the plants. Some home gardeners always nip out the spurs, others say they don't. I personally compromise and nip out some. Either way, you will grow Tomato's...
If you don't prune you may have lots of smaller fruit, its really up to the individual.
I stake or string all of my Tomato plants.
Depending on the variety of Tomato, it can take from 70-81 days from seed to fruit or even 100 days for the hybrid. The bigger the variety, the longer it takes to fruit. The smaller varieties take approximately 45 -70 days.
Tips:
In colder climates you can sow your Tomato seeds 6-8 weeks before planting outdoors. Planting your seedlings outdoors should be scheduled around 2 weeks following the average last frost.
Give your plant frequent, light watering and regular light feedings of a slow release fertaliser, and keep it in a sunny place to encourage growth.
When watering, it is best to soak the root system well, and then allow the surface to dry out somewhat before watering again. Depending on the weather this may mean watering once a day. Test it by sticking your finger into the soil. If the first two inches are dry, it’s time to water.
Watering the soil rather than the leaves and mulching the ground with a material such as straw will keep the water from splashing onto the lower leaves and stems. This can help prevent diseases from spreading.
Some gardeners even remove the lower leaves of Tomato plants once they are well established to prevent them from picking up diseases from the ground. If Nematodes are around, plastic mulch is a method of keeping possible infestation under control.
Please note that every time you water a potted Tomato plant, you are washing nutrients out of the soil and since tomatoes are heavy feeders, you need to fertilize regularly, preferably with either fish emulsion or seaweed extract. Once a month is good, but every other week is better and apply the fertilizer at half-strength. This will provide a constant source of nutrients for the Tomato Plants needs.
Irregular watering, (missing a week and trying to make up for it), leads to blossom end rot and cracking. The rule of thumb is to ensure your plants get at least 1 inch of water per week, but during hot, dry spells, they willneed more. If your plants start to look wilted for most of the day, give them a drink.
Once the fruit begins to ripen, you can ease up on watering. Lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its sugars, for better flavor. Use your judgement. Don’t withhold water so much that the plants continually wilt and become stressed or they will drop their blossoms and possibly their fruit.
Support for the Tomato plants are important in aftercare because:
1. It helps to avoid diseases
2. It makes it easier to harvest
3. It keeps the fruit clean
4. It makes it easier to spray and monitor problems
All varieties of Tomatoes benefit from some support. There are many ways to support your tomato plants. Wood stakes are a simple and inexpensive solution. You will need to tie off the plant to the stakes. Be sure to use several to support your plant well. Another way is creating a real focal point in the garden by making a tall tepee trellis using extra-long pieces of bamboo.
Mulching is important both in containers and garden beds, It will keep weeds from growing in your Tomato pot and retain moisture, so you won’t have to water quite as often. The best mulches are, Pea Straw, bark mulch and plain straw. Another choice is using the black plastic. Simply lay it over the soil before you plant your Tomato, cut a slit large enough to put the plant in, and hold it down with soil.
Growing fresh Tomatoes is one of the true joys of the vegetable gardener. But Tomatoes can suffer from all kinds of diseases and pests. Problems growing tomatoes can be as a result of weather conditions. This is something that is out of the your control. However if you know your area is prone to a certain disease, you should look for Tomato varieties that are listed as resistant.
Friends,
If you haven't 'Grown Your Own' for a while...
Get started and...
Enjoy the best tasting, tender skinned Tomatoes,
you've eaten for years.
Happy Gardening.
Mike.
Foam boxes.
Materials needed:
* A ripe tomato of any variety
* Potting mix . Use Organic if you prefer. Mix in some good, well rotted animal manure. 50-50, unless poultry, then 25% Poultry (optional)
* 3-4 inch pot for the first transplant (optional)
* Large Pot or Foam Box (optional) for one plant that has good drainage.
(if you can, find a free 20 Litre bucket, drill holes for drainage. Makes a great Tomatoe planter, I have about 20 in use)
Select a few over ripe cherry tomatoes (or any variety tomatos that you
prefer. Cherry tomato (all smaller varieties) tend to be less likely to
experience the problems or diseases that larger Tomato varieties can
fall victem to, and they often produce fruit early and have a habit of producing fruit in long trusses.
Select an area in your verandah or garden that is sunny at least ten hours a day. Simply place the selected Tom . onto your ygarden where the soil is loose and rich or in a pot with good potting soil. I then squash the tomato down with any tool I have near.by (Sometimes I simply use the heel of my boot)
I then simply sprinkle a handfull of the potting mix over the Tomato to cover the seed.
Water it once planted. Soak the Tomato bed frequently...it must not dry out, every day at the height of the Riverland SA summer. Apply the water to the soil rather than the leaves in order to help avoid Powdery Mildew. Your potted and foam box plantings need watering frequently.
While tomatoes love heat, they definitely must not be allowed to dry out! Dry soil will definately affect fruit production.
When your baby plants are about 3-4 inches, (8-10 cm) high, it is time to separate and transplant each plant either into your garden or into an individual 3”-4” diameter pot that is filled with good quality, well moistened potting mix, Organic if you prefer. Poke a big enough hole to take the young Tomato plants roots, and plant the seedling.
It is possible for a Tomato plant grow 7 to 10 feet (2-3 metres)
(I have grown Tomato plants easily taller than me...I have Pics if you wish to see them. Yes...I am boasting!) (It can depend on the variety...Grosse Lisse was my choice that year). Allow a metre between plants whatever you are growing. When transplanting the tomato plant to its final growing spot, Plant fairly deep, from the roots upto the first set of leaves,
This will ensure new roots will grow along the buried section of stem, leading to a stronger healthier plant.
If the Tomato plant is in a container or pot, it is advisable, no vital, to Mulch your Pot Plants......I can not stress this enough...keep soil to within an inch (2-3cm) below the rim to allow room for Mulch and water, then stand iin a sunny area of your verandah or garden.
My own observation leads to a word of caution:
Here in the beautiful Riverland, the Summers appear to be hotting up...
I lost a great crop of huge Grosse Lisse toms 2 seasons ago due to severe scalding. (I didn't use shade cloth,it was never a requirement, I do use it now!)
This leads me to be aware of the elements and take action to watch all of my plants.
Tomatoes thrive in the sun Direct sunlight does help maintain stocky, healthy plants. But commonsence must be used...Keep watered!
Once your Tomato plants reach about 3 ft. (about a metre) tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 1 ft. (30cm) of stem. These are the oldest leaves and they are usually the first to expereience any fungal problems. As the plants fill out, the bottom leaves get the least amount of sun and air circulation. Being close to the ground, soil borne nasties can easily spread to the lower leaves.
A fortnight spray of compost tea seems to assist in keeping the plant thrifty.
Pruning tomato suckers is really just thinning the plants. Some home gardeners always nip out the spurs, others say they don't. I personally compromise and nip out some. Either way, you will grow Tomato's...
If you don't prune you may have lots of smaller fruit, its really up to the individual.
I stake or string all of my Tomato plants.
Depending on the variety of Tomato, it can take from 70-81 days from seed to fruit or even 100 days for the hybrid. The bigger the variety, the longer it takes to fruit. The smaller varieties take approximately 45 -70 days.
Tips:
In colder climates you can sow your Tomato seeds 6-8 weeks before planting outdoors. Planting your seedlings outdoors should be scheduled around 2 weeks following the average last frost.
Give your plant frequent, light watering and regular light feedings of a slow release fertaliser, and keep it in a sunny place to encourage growth.
When watering, it is best to soak the root system well, and then allow the surface to dry out somewhat before watering again. Depending on the weather this may mean watering once a day. Test it by sticking your finger into the soil. If the first two inches are dry, it’s time to water.
Watering the soil rather than the leaves and mulching the ground with a material such as straw will keep the water from splashing onto the lower leaves and stems. This can help prevent diseases from spreading.
Some gardeners even remove the lower leaves of Tomato plants once they are well established to prevent them from picking up diseases from the ground. If Nematodes are around, plastic mulch is a method of keeping possible infestation under control.
Please note that every time you water a potted Tomato plant, you are washing nutrients out of the soil and since tomatoes are heavy feeders, you need to fertilize regularly, preferably with either fish emulsion or seaweed extract. Once a month is good, but every other week is better and apply the fertilizer at half-strength. This will provide a constant source of nutrients for the Tomato Plants needs.
Irregular watering, (missing a week and trying to make up for it), leads to blossom end rot and cracking. The rule of thumb is to ensure your plants get at least 1 inch of water per week, but during hot, dry spells, they willneed more. If your plants start to look wilted for most of the day, give them a drink.
Once the fruit begins to ripen, you can ease up on watering. Lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its sugars, for better flavor. Use your judgement. Don’t withhold water so much that the plants continually wilt and become stressed or they will drop their blossoms and possibly their fruit.
Support for the Tomato plants are important in aftercare because:
1. It helps to avoid diseases
2. It makes it easier to harvest
3. It keeps the fruit clean
4. It makes it easier to spray and monitor problems
All varieties of Tomatoes benefit from some support. There are many ways to support your tomato plants. Wood stakes are a simple and inexpensive solution. You will need to tie off the plant to the stakes. Be sure to use several to support your plant well. Another way is creating a real focal point in the garden by making a tall tepee trellis using extra-long pieces of bamboo.
Mulching is important both in containers and garden beds, It will keep weeds from growing in your Tomato pot and retain moisture, so you won’t have to water quite as often. The best mulches are, Pea Straw, bark mulch and plain straw. Another choice is using the black plastic. Simply lay it over the soil before you plant your Tomato, cut a slit large enough to put the plant in, and hold it down with soil.
Growing fresh Tomatoes is one of the true joys of the vegetable gardener. But Tomatoes can suffer from all kinds of diseases and pests. Problems growing tomatoes can be as a result of weather conditions. This is something that is out of the your control. However if you know your area is prone to a certain disease, you should look for Tomato varieties that are listed as resistant.
Friends,
If you haven't 'Grown Your Own' for a while...
Get started and...
Enjoy the best tasting, tender skinned Tomatoes,
you've eaten for years.
Happy Gardening.
Mike.
INTRODUCING MIKE & JENNY'S GARDENING BLOG.
Welcome to Mike & Jenny's Gardening Blog.
Mikes 'Budget' Pot Plants are pleased to add this convenient service to our valued customer friends.
Your Autumn and Winter choices are listed. Contact us for cheap supplies of seeds. 0414453951
April # Plant this Month
Ornamental s: Azaleas, Bougainvillea, calendula, camellia, fox gloves, grevillea, hibiscus, lavender, lobelia, natives, pansies, poppies, roses, salvias, sweet peas, violets and viburnum.
April # Edibles to Plant this Month:
Artichoke, broccoli, broad beans, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, coriander, climbing beans, deciduous fruit trees such as apples, pears, plums etc. fennel, garlic, leeks, lettuce, parsnip and potatoes.
Garden Jobs for April
1. Prepare vegetable beds for autumn plantings – Blend in a good Soil Improver and treat non wetting soils with a wetting agent like Eco Wet or consider blending in Soil Solver, a mineral clay soil builder.
2. Feed Roses – Continue feeding roses monthly until the end of May. An all Purpose Fertiliser or Eco Growth Prime Garden will give excellent results and remember to always water in well.
3. Feed and revive your lawn – Support autumn growth with a feed of a quality lawn food like Eco Growth Eco Emerald. This rock mineral based food, is naturally slow release and feeds lawns in an environmentally responsible way. Treat non wetting dry patches with a soil wetter such as Eco Wet.
4. Plant winter and spring flowering annuals – April and May are fantastic times to plant winter and spring flowering annuals such as -alyssum, calendulas, pansies primulas, stocks and violas.
5. Apply soil wetting agents – like Eco Wet or granular Grosorb to non- wetting soils. Do this now to make the most of winter rains.
6. Look out for Rose fungal leaf diseases – Spray fortnightly with Eco Fungicide (in conjunction with Eco Oil) or Rose Shield Black spot & Insect Pest Killer.
You can Purchase all of your Flower and Veg. Seeds from us.
Your Autumn and Winter choices are listed. Contact us for cheap supplies of seeds. 0414453951
April # Plant this Month
Ornamental s: Azaleas, Bougainvillea, calendula, camellia, fox gloves, grevillea, hibiscus, lavender, lobelia, natives, pansies, poppies, roses, salvias, sweet peas, violets and viburnum.
April # Edibles to Plant this Month:
Artichoke, broccoli, broad beans, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, coriander, climbing beans, deciduous fruit trees such as apples, pears, plums etc. fennel, garlic, leeks, lettuce, parsnip and potatoes.
Garden Jobs for April
1. Prepare vegetable beds for autumn plantings – Blend in a good Soil Improver and treat non wetting soils with a wetting agent like Eco Wet or consider blending in Soil Solver, a mineral clay soil builder.
2. Feed Roses – Continue feeding roses monthly until the end of May. An all Purpose Fertiliser or Eco Growth Prime Garden will give excellent results and remember to always water in well.
3. Feed and revive your lawn – Support autumn growth with a feed of a quality lawn food like Eco Growth Eco Emerald. This rock mineral based food, is naturally slow release and feeds lawns in an environmentally responsible way. Treat non wetting dry patches with a soil wetter such as Eco Wet.
4. Plant winter and spring flowering annuals – April and May are fantastic times to plant winter and spring flowering annuals such as -alyssum, calendulas, pansies primulas, stocks and violas.
5. Apply soil wetting agents – like Eco Wet or granular Grosorb to non- wetting soils. Do this now to make the most of winter rains.
6. Look out for Rose fungal leaf diseases – Spray fortnightly with Eco Fungicide (in conjunction with Eco Oil) or Rose Shield Black spot & Insect Pest Killer.
You can Purchase all of your Flower and Veg. Seeds from us.
Mikes 'Budget' Pot Plants 21 Jackson Street, MONASH.
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